THE CAMINO WAY FRANCES/ST.JAMES WAY – ST.JEAN PIED DE PORT – SANTIAGO DE COMPESTELO
What motivated me to do this journey
It was 12 years ago I watched a film called ‘The Way’ starring Martin Sheen and his son Emilio Estevez. This film is about a group of people who met on their journey on the Camino Way, also known as ‘St. James Way’, all who had personal reasons for being there.
I had been suffering various anxieties throughout my life, emotions I was unable to share, sometimes a feeling of worthlessness but why? I have a loving family and many friends who care about me but this is just how I felt – I knew the reason why, I wasn’t confident enough to let others know, I was so often admired for a strength I didn’t actually have. I had to discover myself, a search for ‘who am I’. Anyone who has walked the Camino will tell you ‘if the Camino is calling, you must go’. It had been ‘calling’ for many years now and in September 2023 it was time to make this journey. I booked my flight from Gatwick to Biarritz and a transfer by taxi to St. Jean Pied de Port for 31st August 2023. Finally, I was ready to embark on this wonderful journey.
How easy was it to plan
The planning of my route was relatively easy. I had been bought John Brierley’s book a few years ago ‘A pilgrims guide to the Camino de Santiago’ which had 33 stage maps, all I had to do was decide how much time I had to walk the distance of 790Km (500ish miles), daily distances and where I felt I would like rest days.
What were the highlights
Every day of the Camino had a highlight of some wealth. Crossing the Pyrenees from France into Spain, walking through or stopping in timeless Spanish Villages, the countryside whether climbing or descending (always remembering to look back at the scenery behind you), the beautiful tiny chapels and of course the Cities with the magnificent Churches and Cathedrals adorned inside with gold. A personal highlight for me was having my dear Sister Denise Page, her partner and my husband coming out to visit me on an unknown date, Denise and Chris in their camper van and John in his. All who had a 33-hour boat trip to join me.
Denise walked with me for 3 days and very early on realised why this pilgrimage is so unique and the way it affects people. I was very pleased to have her with me to share this experience, meeting my many Camino friends from all over the world who I had either walked, lunched, had meals with and drank with, you were never alone on the Camino unless you wanted to be. This was respected by your new Camino friends.
Denise soon recognised how fellow pilgrims showed their sincere interest in who you are and where you are from and importantly the atmosphere created of wanting to share some if not all of your story. We ourselves would both chat some of the way but also had some comfortable silences. I was with my sister and I was proud.
Now I was simply walking for 36 days, blue skies, beautiful scenery, no television or radio, no burdens of daily life, just peace.
Were there any lows on this trip
There were no lows on the trip, but I was unfortunate to stay a night in an Albergue ran by a Spanish man who was very chauvinistic. This upset me but my Camino friends were there to cheer me up.
Did the Pilgrimage meet my expectations
The Pilgrimage totally exceeded my expectations – I never expected to meet so many new friends. I had read articles where people would talk of their ‘Camino family’ and it was exactly this for 36 days As much as we interacted with each other at café stops and in the evenings, we still enjoyed walking Kilometres on our own savouring the solo moments
The most commonly heard phrase on the Camino route is ‘Buen Camino’ which serves as a greeting and farewell to pilgrims and translates to ‘good walk’. From the start of the Camino in St. Jean Pied de Port, we Pilgrims were so happy to finally be able to greet each other in this way often leading to conversation and later good friendships with pilgrims from all over the world. There was so much joyful camaraderie between us all, should you be sat at a table by yourself you would be asked if you would like to join others on a table. You were never alone unless you wanted to be.
What advice would I give to someone thinking of walking the Camino
If you’re going alone just book your flight – with total certainty, you will start the Camino alone but end it in company.
Don’t contemplate going with a group of friends – this is a Pilgrimage whether you’re religious or spiritual, everyone on the Camino has a personal reason for being there and it’s here they open up their heart to you in a way they’ve not been able to share before. It’s natural to be asked or ask ‘why are you on this journey – you don’t have to say if you’d rather not’.
Your feet are the most important part of your body to care for. Blisters can very easily put a stop to your walk before it’s even started. Purchase Box Toe Trainers (Altra Lonepeaks) – (walking boots are not recommended) and merino wool toe socks (Injinji) and foot glide
My biggest mistake on the Camino was booking beds in dormitories. More often than not, I was in the top bunk. Most places cram as many bunk beds into the room as they can. Lights go out on sensors at 10pm and are not on until about 7.30am. Therefore, everyone is fumbling around in the dark. I left items behind having checked before I left, I just couldn’t see them. The toilets and showers are very often mixed. This of course is my own opinion but if I could have changed anything on the Camino it would have been to have my own room.
Buen Camino!!